Updated pictures

A good connection here in Fare so I was able to catch up a little on pictures. I've uploaded pictures for the Marquesas and Tuamotus. See them on Where We've Been.

Smoked out

Three nights ago we made our passage from Moorea to Huahine. We had no wind for much of the trip so it was mostly a motor boat trip, though we were able to sail the last hour and a half in the morning just before arrival. The trip was uneventful.

We arrived at Fare around 8am to find that the recommended anchorage was fairly full. Moorings has a charter base in Raiatea and at least half the boats were charter boats. Since it was early we decided to tour the west coast down to Baie Avea where friends had reported a good anchorage. We wound in and out of the coast, saw the impressive waves breaking on the reef (the SW swell that seems to defy the trade winds) and enjoyed the view at slow speed. The last mile or so into Baie Avea is oddly charted. The charts show solid reef or "uncharted", but then there are some navigation marks and soundings; there was actually plenty of water, it seems the cartographers just got tired. Baie Avea was beautiful, but with a strong gusting wind coming around the SE point.

Yesterday morning the gusts were even stronger and we eventually gave up trying to get the dinghy off the foredeck for fear that someone would be hurt as the wind kept picking it up before we could get it over the side. A little bit later we noticed smoke on the hillside. This was not unusual since we frequently see areas being burned off for agriculture, or burning trash. But this time it blossomed into a full blown brush fire. To our amazement the fire worked down the fairly steep hill, and to the SE, into the gusting wind.

Twice we re-anchored New Morning further to windward trying to escape the rain of ash that was falling onto the boat, blowing into the saloon. Then just when we thought the fire was moving west with the wind, new areas to windward and down the hill burst into flames. After some debate and indecision we decided we had to move to avoid the risk of having hot embers landing on New Morning and her sails. We motored off into the late late afternoon sun with essentially no ability to see the water depth. Fortunately we were able to follow our plotter's "track" and retrace the route we had followed on our way in.

A few miles later we turned east into Baie Haapu. It's a good sized bay and we were able to anchor in 55' feet of water. But after a peaceful late afternoon we started getting blasted by large gusts every few minutes. First from the east, then the north east and sometimes from the SE. Each time the gust comes from a different direction New Morning heels and then spins around to face her bow into the 25-30kt gusts. It was not a restful night.

Today we'll probably head back to Fare.

Moorea Maxfield Parrish

At least that's what came to mind when I saw this scene and took the picture.

I can't believe it's been a week since I posted last. We got kinda lazy in Opunohu. Then the weather changed a bit and we found ourselves rolling in a small swell for two days so we moved back to Cook's bay on Sunday morning. That led to a spectacular night in Cook's Bay. The bay was absolutely flat, dead still, perfect temperature, and the full moon came up over the mountain in a completely clear sky. We were dazzled by the moon for awhile, then decided to setup the "drive-in". We moved the small cockpit table aft, put the MacBook Pro on it and watched a movie while bathed in moonlight.

And before I forget, here is the picture from Le Belvedere than I promised earlier, looking down on the two bays. Cook's Bay is on the right and Opunohu is on the left.

Now we've been here three days already? Well we did go snorkeling again. Yesterday we did a lot of boat chores (Fay has the cockpit sparkling) and placed our order at Sylvesie's for pastries. Today we unloaded our garbage and recycling (they recycle cans and bottles here!), picked up our almond croissants and raisin rolls from Sylvesie, bought a bucket to replace the one we donated to the ocean, and went to an ATM in Maharepa to stock up on cash. And just a few minutes ago Tahiti Ocean brought us (well to a nearby dock) a new blower for the engine box, fantastic service!

Tomorrow late afternoon we'll depart for Huahine. It's about 90 miles which is an awkward distance. It's too far for a day trip (any problems would have us arriving after dark) and almost too short for an overnight (we'll probably arrive before dawn). So the overnight is the safer choice. We'll depart just after sunset.

Cool

Not really cold, but definitely cool. Ever since we arrived in French Polynesia we've noticed that it's pleasantly cooler than Panama. And once we got to Tahiti it seemed even cooler. Hold on folks, at times, during a particularly cool night, we actually have a blanket over us when sleeping. Really, the temperature is perfect. In the cabin the daytime temperature ranges from 73-84. The temperature in the cockpit, under the dodger/bimini gets as low as 71 at night! The result is an incredibly thick coating of condensation on the decks and hatches which develops almost the instant the sun goes down and then gets thicker through the night.

Tuesday we took a long hike (ok, only about six miles) to "Le Belvedere". It seems every island with a mountain, has a "Belvedere". Basically a nice lookout point from half way up the mountain. It was a good walk (though not in good walking shoes as my blisters attest), through beautiful vegetation which included pine trees. Then from above we could look down onto both Cook's Bay and Opunohu bay. I promise a picture soon.

Today was snorkeling and boat chores. We took the dingy for a long trip, about 4 miles each way, outside the bay, but inside the reef, and to the north west corner of Moorea where there are several resorts. There is also a spot nicknamed Stingray World. We pulled up in the dingy, clipped on to a mooring buoy in about four feet of water and were instantly surrounded by 10-15 sting rays. These were pretty large with wing spans of 3' - 4' and tails/stingers to match. We put our legs over the side and they immediately swam up to us and even ran their wings across our feet. The tour boats bring tourists from the resorts and they toss squid into the water for the rays. They've learned to expect food when they see a boat, hence our warm welcome! A few 4' - 5' black tip reef sharks also came around to check us out, but soon departed. And some lovely trigger fish rounded out the welcoming party.

I think Opunohu may be our best anchorage yet!

Another day, another bay

Yesterday we moved from Cook's Bay to Opunohu Bay. Check "Where's New Morning", zoom in and you'll see it wasn't a big move! The view is once again stunning with thick vegetation providing an infinite variety of texturing as the light plays across the jagged peaks that surround us.

Shortly after we arrived it started blowing cranking up until we had a steady 20-25 knots with gusts over 30. The wind generator was making lots of electricity! There were periods of calm, but basically it blew through the night and it's still blowing this afternoon. The trades shifted to the NE right now which is why the wind is sneaking into this otherwise protected bay. Tomorrow the trades should shift back to E or even SE and calm should return.

When we first arrived we took the dinghy off the foredeck and had it tethered behind New Morning, but decided that since we weren't going to be going anywhere in the big wind we'd be lazy and not mount the outboard. When it was blowing very hard Fay asked me if the dinghy was safe and of course I assured her it was. Ten minutes later she looked out to see the dinghy was upside down and one oar was floating away! The second oar was caught up in the lifting harness underneath the dinghy and I was able to quickly retrieve it. Not wanting to loose our second oar, and despite the strong winds and pelting rain, we quickly mounted the 2HP outboard, raced towards the head of the bay and retrieved our runaway oar. Then our trusty 2hp pushed us right back through the big chop and wind and to New Morning where in consideration of the flipped dinghy we immediately unmounted the outboard and stored it safely on the pushpit. A little drama, a minor rescue and an excuse for a hot shower and a glass of wine!

Since it's still blowing today and we didn't want to fight the wind to go ashore we decided it would be a baking day. Fay made a batch of cherry chocolate chip oatmeal cookies and I'm baking two loaves of cinnamon raisin bread. Tomorrow we'll go ashore and do a big hike, nourished by a nice piece of cinnamon raisin bread toast for breakfast, and maybe a couple of cookies in the back pack.

Lemon Zest

Cook's Bay has been really delightful. Most of the last couple days the wind has been very light and the bay very calm. This morning was glassy, though the breeze has come up this afternoon. A large motor yacht has been here the entire time, and a few days ago we were joined by a large sailing yacht. Smaller boats have come and gone. The views are stunning and the local patisserie makes an outstanding almond croissant!

Two days ago Fay went diving on the west end of the island. While the visibility was apparently less than she had hoped for, she did manage to see every fish that was on the two pages covering Moorea in one of our fish books. That included this Lemon Shark.

Today we went snorkeling and saw a very large sting ray with at least a 4-5' wing span and a 2' stinger. He was laying on the bottom mostly covered in sand with just his stinger protruding. We were observing him from about 20' away when he decided we were close enough and swam away. I never tire of watching rays swim, gracefully flapping their wings as they sweep through the water.