We've been watching the daily NOAA surface analysis weather faxes to try to avoid the ITCZ. It had spent a lot of time further west and north which convinced us to not stop at Isla Coco. Instead we plotted a course recommended by Jimmy Cornell that went south early, then turned west later on. This looked promising since the ITCZ jumped around a lot, but getting south and staying east would improve the chances of making an end run around the ITCZ.
Well the ITCZ came to us anyway! The surface analysis about three hours after our departure showed it had moved right onto our course! We had about 4-5 hours of smooth, light air sailing, then the wind died and we had to start motoring. Last night was all lightning and confusing winds. We were able to sail for 3-4 hours this morning, though about 30 degrees off our course. Then we came into a very large area of rain from which we could not escape. Heavy at times, very confused seas, but no lightning. At one point a ship crossed about 2nm behind us and we never saw it, visibility was really poor. AIS is really fantastic. I think the south then west course did help us with the ITCZ, even though we were hoping to not pass through it at all.
We finally escaped the rain about 5pm this afternoon, but the wind was 3-4kts on the nose and the seas very confused and sloppy, so we're motoring. Ten minutes ago we had 6kts on our starboard bow and I was considering sailing, now we have 4kts on our port bow and the bumpiness has jumped significantly. It would be nice to get the seas straightened out a bit and even just 7-8kts of reliable wind so we could sail. But in this area we know we can count on the conditions changing frequently, so we'll wait and see what we get next.
The ocean has a lot more phosphorescence tonight. Our bow wave and our wake are dazzling. And again tonight we've been visited by white birds. There was just one last night, but there are three tonight. They dart back and forth, mostly along the starboard side of the boat in a sort of ghostly illumination from the starboard running light. I think they're grabbing small fish turned up by our bow wake as they occasionally swoop down onto the water for a few moments. They're white shapes really stand out in what is otherwise a very dark night.
Some cloud cover has returned, masking the few stars I could see earlier. And the seas have gotten lumpy again after a teasing period of smoothing out. But the radar is entirely blank (no rain squalls - no ships - no fishing boats) and there is no lightning. We should turn to the west early tomorrow morning. Time for the 8pm log entry and another attempt to reach the Pacific Puddle Jump net controller on the radio.
